Domaine Georges Roumier – Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Clos de la Bussière 2017 – Burgundy France

A walled Cistercian clos that has never been divided since the twelfth century, and the only monopole Roumier owns. William Kelley calls it the most underrated wine in the cellar — which, at a domaine mentioned in the same breath as DRC and Leroy, is worth paying attention to.

🍷 At a Glance

• Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
• Appellation: Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Clos de la Bussière — monopole
• Region: Côte de Nuits, Burgundy
• Vintage: 2017
• Producer: Domaine Georges Roumier
• Winemaker: Christophe Roumier
• Vineyard: Around 2.5 hectares at the southern edge of Morey, still encircled by its original Cistercian wall; acquired by the Roumier family in 1953
• Soil: Clay-limestone over Bathonian rock, with noticeable oolite and a high proportion of clay
• Estate: About 11.5 hectares in total — small even by Burgundian standards, and entirely family-held
• Serving temperature: 15–17°C
• Style: Dry red wine

👃 Tasting Notes & Experience

• Color: Deep ruby
• Nose: Dark fruit — black cherry and blackcurrant — with smoke and warm spice
• Palate: Fleshy and powerful, with the firmness Morey gives and a coaly darkness beneath
• Structure: Chalky, assertive tannins that need time to settle
• Finish: Long, dense and persistent

The clos was first planted by Cistercian monks in the twelfth century and has stayed in one pair of hands ever since — it sits directly opposite the entrance to Domaine Dujac, and in the 1930s formed part of the Graillet estate whose remnants became Dujac itself. Georges Roumier bought it from the Bettenfeld family in 1953, found it in poor condition, and began replanting in 1955; the last phase of renewal finished in 1994. The domaine's whole structure was designed to keep things intact: with seven children to provide for, the family incorporated so heirs would hold shares rather than parcels, which is why Roumier is still one estate rather than a dozen fragments. Christophe has run the cellar since the mid-1980s, working with natural yeasts, a substantial share of whole bunches, restrained new oak and bottling without fining or filtration.

❤️ Why We Love It

• A monopole undivided since the twelfth century, inside its original Cistercian wall
• The one wine at Roumier that hasn't yet been priced like a Roumier
• Three bottles only

🍽️ Food Pairing Ideas

• Roast game, venison and duck
• Beef in red wine sauce
• Mushrooms, truffle and aged hard cheeses

👤 Who This Wine Is For

✓ Collectors who want a Roumier that still rewards patience rather than speculation
✓ Drinkers who like Morey's firmness and depth
✕ Not a bottle to open young